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What I admired about her style is that she always looked herself, rather than trying to be fashionable. I know it’s a cliche to say, but she always wore the clothes, they never wore her. By doing so, she was instantly recognizable, and was able to wear these extraordinary outfits. The uniform for Trooping the Colour, for example: a broad-shouldered red jacket resplendent with medals and a tricorn with Lord Mountbatten’s osprey feathers. Or wearing a gold ballgown with white fox stoles and huge tiaras and enormous amounts of jewels. She looked magnificent, but she wore it lightly. I don’t think she really cared about public opinion on what she was wearing. I think she wanted to make her own mark, and the vagaries and the up and downs of fashion didn’t really concern her. Even in the very final photo we saw of her, in black shoes, a kilt, and a cardigan, she looked completely at home in whatever she was wearing, which is a good lesson for all of us.
When I was growing up, the image of her was all-pervading. In the early ’80s, for example, the International Herald Tribune might publish one fashion photograph per day during the shows. I remember in The Telegraph and other newspapers, there might be two or three photographs or illustrations of fashion per week, and that would be it. That was the importance that was granted to fashion. So photographs of the Queen were some of the most prevalent photographs of fashion for years. The Queen was really the patron saint of millinery. The entire industry of millinery would not be what it is today without the Queen, there’s no question about it. Rick Owens or Jacquemus would not be showing hats if the Queen had not been wearing hats throughout her reign—because the hat became a symbol of fashion, where the volume or the presence is outside the norm. That’s why the Queen wore them too. The ultimate hat is the symbol of royalty: the crown. That idea of indicating status or splendor on the head is the language that milliners speak.
She was acutely aware of the power of fashion, and I think she was very respectful of the craft of fashion too. She knew that her appearance was a metaphor that could be used in many different ways. She really understood it as a tool of communication. Even though it’s been debated, for me, I think the strongest statement was when she had to read the Brexit speech in the House of Commons, for which she wore a blue hat with yellow flowers that absolutely resembled the European flag. Because from what I understand, she always embraced the EU. She lived through the war, and she knew why the EU was created—to tie nations together. So that to me was one of the most important looks of hers. You can’t really call it political because she did not have a political voice, but I’m sure she wanted to make a point, and she made it as strongly as she possibly could through what she wore.
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